Eduardo Valentini took the lowly Trebbiano grape and turned it into a wine that people scour the world for.

In his hands, Italy's most prolific (and usually insipid) grape became a world-class, refined, and ageworthy wine that is truly a cult favorite.

While Valentini produced a red wine from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, he considered Trebbiano to be the best expression of Abruzzo, the eastern Italian region where he made his wines. Not only has the grape been there since Roman times, but he believed it best conveyed the essence of soil, climate, and culture in Abruzzo.

The handmade wines of Emidio Pepe are absolutely unique, combining the raw power of California reds, the elegant perfume of Barolo, the earthy complexity of Bordeaux and the finessed grace of Grand Cru Burgundy. Those who understand them soon become obsessed (like me), but be warned: these wines are not for everyone. For some, these wines are just too untamed, too expressive, too raw. One thing, however, is undeniable - these bottles truly redefine what Trebbiano and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo can be.

Like the man, the wines of Emidio Pepe are uncompromising individualists, celebrated by the initiated few, yet unknown to the larger public - at least for now. These wines gain in reputation every year, and they are slowly earning a loyal following. This means it's getting harder and harder to find the few bottles that this small family-run estate can produce. If you would like to try these wines, now is the time. We are proud to be able to offer you a number of outstanding bottles, all of impeccable provenance, coming directly from Emidio Pepe's cellars to you!

Lambrusco's acidity and bubbles make it the perfect complement to the rich, largely pork-based cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, which is generally considered some of Italy's best. The acidity, bubbles and low tannins make Lambrusco a great partner for cheeses and spicy Asian foods as well. Overall, it's very versatile at the table.

Commonly thought of as just one grape, Lambrusco actually refers to a great big family of similar varietals growing mainly in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region, though there are also plantings in Lombardy and elsewhere. The vine originated in the wild before it was domesticated; it now boasts more than 60 strains, the most common being Sobara, Salamino (its grape bunches are said to look like salami,) and the red-stemmed Grasparossa. Sorbara is prized for it's lightness and elegance, while Grasparossa is the fullest and most powerful, and Salamino falls somewhere between the two.

Slightly more confusing, Lambrusco zones often share their names with their area's most common strain: In the area of Castelvetro it's Grasparossa, in Santa Croce it's the Salamino strain, and Sobara is associated with the plains north of Modena that surround a village of the same name. A fourth area, Lambrusco Reggiano, is home to a lot of bulk production and is extensively planted with high-yielding strains and Salamino.

Classic Lambrusco can be made either dry or amabile, which means off-dry or just slightly sweet. While typically red, there are both rosés and whites based on Lambrusco grapes as well.

The wines can be made sparkling through either the Charmat method (secondary fermentation takes place in a pressurized tank) or through the more traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.

While Piedmont's Langhe superstars Barolo and Barbaresco hog much of the spotlight, Nebbiolo grows and makes good - even great - wines under various aliases throughout Northwestern Italy. The wines may lack the muscle of Barolo and Barbaresco, but they make up for it in perfume, nervosity and delicacy.

Northern Piedmont: This region includes Gattinara, Ghemme, Bramaterra, Fara, Lessona, Sizzano and, of course, Boca. Nebbiolo (called Spanna here) is often blended with Vespolina and Uva Rara.

Carema: Also in northern Piedmont, but just southwest of those mentioned above. Carema sits in the shadows of Mt. Blanc and is on the border of the Valle d'Aosta region. Nebbiolo (here called Picoutener or Picotendro) grows at high altitudes in fantastically terraced vineyards rooted in poor stony soils. Compared to the wines from Gattinara, Lessona, Boca, etc., the wines of Carema are even more brisk and ethereal.

Valtellina: In Lombardia and bordering Switzerland, these vineyards reach over 2,000 feet. Nebbiolo (locally called Chiavennasca) can be blended with other grapes (Rossola, Pignola, Prugnolo and Pinot Nero). This is the most "nervous" Nebbiolo, full of flowers and sometimes subtle gamey notes. The four Crus are Sasella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella, which may appear on labels. There's also a tradition of beefing up the region's light wine by drying grapes, Amarone-style; they call this Sforsato.

Donnas and Arnad-Montjovet: From the eastern section of Valle d'Aosta near Carema, these are light and crisp Nebbiolos (called Picoutener or Picotendro).

From the hills of Montefalco in Umbria, the Bea family has been quietly toiling to create one of the most distinctive red wines we've had this year.

Though they have their own specific formula dating back hundreds of years, the major focus of making this incredible wine is letting nature take its course.

When Paolo says, "nature should be observed, heard, understood, not dominated," it is neither for political reasons nor for show - it's ultimately all about taste.

The family's goal is to achieve a natural expression of terroir & grape that extracts a liveliness and purity often lacking in over-manipulated wines.

Each Bea bottling reads "che il vino � vivo!" (this wine is alive!), and it is clear that they mean it from their uncanny ability to coax change from grapes without dominating or destroying their essence. While some ridicule their methods, such as planting artichokes under the vines to improve exhausted soil, it is just this type of active and delicate vigilance that makes their minimalist intervention practices so successful.

The result of the family's devotion is that the Bea name is uttered by those in the know in the same breath with DRC, Comtes Lafon, Dagueneau, and Gravner.

So why haven't you heard of Bea?

Like our email on Clos Rougeard last week, this is another family that has absolutely no desire to market themselves, but prefers to make only the amount of wine they know they can sell.

In fact, the Bea estate is 40 acres, less than 1/3rd of which are dedicated to wine production, while the rest is used for the family farm ... if they wanted to expand production, they would have no problem planting more vines.

How does the wine taste?

"Multifaceted" doesn't even begin to describe the outcome the Bea family achieves from their efforts. See our tasting notes below, but Bea's masterpieces will bring a smile to the faces of all Rhone, Brunello, and Amarone devotees. Staunch USA-only drinkers will have their world rocked.

Neal Rosenthal, the importer, says that the 2001 is the "fourth in a series of stunning vintages in Umbria and may perhaps be the finest of all."

We agree, because this 100% Sagrantino from the Pagliaro vineyard site is incredibly forward compared to previous vintages. While the wine will certainly improve over the next 10 years+ as it develops secondary nuances, it is drinking amazingly well right now.

Here are my tasting notes:

"The bouquet and palate are a beautiful mash-up of leather, tobacco, cheese, violets, plum, black cherries, funk, and a 'sauvage' earthy sweetness. Every time I smell or taste the wine, I get something new! While smooth in the mouth, some serious tannins lie in wait for the finish. Balancing this formidable structure is an impressively crisp acidity that pulls the whole thing together, keeping it vibrant and fresh. Somehow, despite its richness, the wine is ethereally light on the palate. This is the best red wine I have tasted so far in 2006, and the wine I would cellar if I were forced to pick only one"

The challenging 2002 vintage shows that the Bea's tried and true winemaking formula includes a healthy dose of good humor, as the first words on the label are "vendemmia difficile" (difficult year!).

The vintage also shows the magic that an incredible winemaker with patience and character can create by working with what nature offers. Appropriately, the words on the label that follow "difficult year" are "ma sorprendente" (but amazing).

How did Bea get amazing wine in a so-so vintage? By refusing to bottle his flagship wine (the "Pagliaro,") by discarding any questionable fruit and cutting overall production by 25% overall, by working with nature gave him to make the absolute best wine possible, and by humbly labeling his effort as a Vino di Tavola (the only criteria for which is that the wine is made in Italy).

Bea bottled only a single cuvee in 2002, blending all of the Sagrantino he normally uses for his top wine with the Sangiovese and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo used for his Montefalco Rosso.

The results are quite impressive - the Roso di Veo or "red of Bea" (Veo = Bea in local dialect), has outstanding density and concentration of flavor regardless of the year it was produced.

In comparison to the "Pagliaro" it also has a riper fruit character (surprising given the weather conditions) and is much darker in essence ... a sort of meat plus chocolate and dark fruit flavor combined with an earthy sweetness.

While the Rosso di Veo doesn't have the structure of the flagship Sagrantino, at 25% of the price it is made for joyous and immediate celebration today either on its own or with food.

Members of the Bea clan have been living in the hills of Montefalco since 1500.

Since they moved into the area, little has changed at their classic, self-sustaining Italian fattoria. Known primarily for their wine, the Beas also farm olives, fruits and vegetables and raise livestock for their personal consumption ... all the while passing along history and tradition as well as a true passion for living in harmony with the land.

Paolo Bea, the head of the family, is nearing 75 years of age, but continues to be the guiding force at the winery, translating years of experience and lessons from his father into some outrageous wines. His son Giuseppe grows the grapes while Giampiero makes runs the winery from vinification, to bottling, to sales

A common misconception is that "natural wine" involves throwing grapes into barrels and seeing what happens. Making wines naturally is a difficult process as Nature often throws a wrench into your plans.

To make sure your wine doesn't run away on you, you must have to have exacting standards and incredible attention to detail. In Paolo Bea's case, the family methodically applies centuries old traditions while making modifications for the weather conditions in each vintage.

What does natural practices does the Bea family use?

-Organic & Byodynamic farming

-Low yields and a relatively late, by-hand harvest

-Long (40 day+) maceration (juice left to soak on skins)

-Fermentation with only naturally occurring yeasts

-No additives (sugar, enzymes, or sulfites)

-18 month fermentation in stainless steel

-12 month fermentation in old oak

-No fining or filtering

The slopes that fall away from Montefalco have been cultivated for centuries, and produced wines that were served to popes and governors during the Renaissance.

Spotted with beautiful churches, monuments, and artifacts, Montefalco joins the small nearby commune of Bevagna once a year to host a week-long celebration of the region's wine including Montefalco Rosso, and the famous Sagrantino.

The south facing slopes of Montefalco, when paired with the cool, deep, clay and calcereous soil, are ideal for the hearty Sagrantino grape.

Sagrantino is made in two styles: "Secco" and "Passito". Passito is a sweet wine made using centuries old tradition of drying grapes and is characterized by blackberry, licorice, and orange nuances with heavy tannins and sweet, raisiny taste.

Sagrantino "Secco" is a more recently (1970s) pioneered dry version of the wine characterized by blackberry and cherry fruit with a soft spiciness and earthy undertones.

To qualify for the designation "Sagrantino di Montefalco" each wine must be aged for no less than 30 months and spends at least 12 of months in oak.

I knew Silvio Messana痴 2004 Montesecondo would be my "Wine of the Year" the first time I had it.

A Tuscan red with supercharged fruit, fresh acidity and a thrilling vibrancy, it痴 one of the greatest food wines I致e tasted in 2006. It is honest and unpretentious, a wine that doesn稚 overpower a meal, but perfectly complements it.

When I first asked Teobaldo Cappellano about his winemaking process he shrugged his shoulders and looked at me with a soft sense of disappointment. In this scene, I was clearly Luke Skywalker and he was Yoda the Jedi Master. After a short pause, he said: "Son, when you make love, do you read the Karma Sutra?"

The following is translated from the YouTube intervew with Teobaldo Cappellano. Translation provided by former Crush Employee Bill Shube.

We have one terrible defect here in the region, with regard to the social set-up. All of a sudden we have Estates. The estate had always been a very tiny thing in our region.

This is truly a way of life for us here, because [previoiusly] my competitor wouldn't have been a landholder, so I wouldn't have been a farmer-winemaker, so I've lost the aspect of democracy. It's absurd, because in dictatorship, it's as if there can be more democracy than in an area like that where everyone has a landlord. But my competitor is also my neighbor, because he'd come to help me with the harvest, out of his own goodness, and he'd profit from it, too.

Corsican Vermentinu: Resolutely Unique
2009 Comte Abbatucci Ajaccio Blanc Faustine
Fanatical Winemaking / SOMETHING Terroir

"I can think of few if any wines that have given me a more delightful jolt of discovery in the past year than those of Jean-Charles Abbatucci." - David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate

The wines of Corsica are so resolutely unique that they can cause even the most seasoned palates to look at things with fresh eyes. 

Extreme (Concentration, Balance, Rarity)
2009 Miani Friulano Filip
The Cult Producer of Italy's Friuli

"Enzo Pontoni crafts some of the most profound, monumental wines readers are likely to come across."
-Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate

Yet it's also likely that many "readers" have never heard of Enzo Pontoni and his miraculous wines.