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09 Schloss Lieser GG: Triumph in Mosel Dry Riesling

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf on September 13, 2010

Middle Mosel Magic, Part II (The Dry Side)
2009 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden GG
Our Single Parcel has Arrived - Special Pricing

"...many reports are circulating that the Schloss Lieser 2009ers are amongst the greatest wines produced in Germany this year." - John Gilman, View from the Cellar

Heed Gilman's words, above, because the 2009 Schloss Liesers truly are among the most profound Middle Mosel Rieslings from this vintage.

The style is 100% Mosel - an incredible articulation of fruit and acidity, each finely woven around the other and each simply razor-sharp. There is a structural rigor to the 2009 Niederberg Helden that calls to mind the world's truly epic dry Rieslings, from Alsace's Clos Ste. Hune to Klaus-Peter Keller's grand dry Rieslings. And while the stature of the Schloss Lieser is certainly more compact, more diminutive... finer... this is indeed part of the magic.

Because the wine loses nothing in intensity - and that is the charm of great Mosel Riesling.

To my palate, this wine is one of the treasures of the awesome 2009 Schloss Lieser collection. For those obsessed with the details of Mosel wine history, this bottle is also the first-ever "Grosses Gewächs" ("Grand Cru" dry Riesling) from Schloss Lieser. When I visited Thomas Haag in late April the word on the street was already out about his collection and the wine was nearly sold out.

So I placed the reservation on the spot and today we happily present what must be the largest parcel of these wines to come into the U.S., and we're talking only a few cases!

If it's fallen from fame, the Niederberg Helden truly is a storied site, rising up behind the town of Lieser, an impressive wall of vines and slate that runs along the Mosel River. While the vineyard was quite famous in the early- to mid-20th Century, the castle and the site fell into disrepute. Thomas Haag, scion of the Fritz Haag estate, has made it his life's work to bring this site back to life and this dry Riesling, in this vintage, has to be some sort of apogee.

While the size, the framework of the wine is dense, compact, this is still a very powerful bottle of wine, a rush of tart stone fruit, flowers and minerals that is needle-fine and saturating. The Niederberg Helden site has a very good water supply so the fruit can be downright luscious in bigger vintages, and while 2009 is just such a vintage, the dry weather seems to have kept the fruit in check and Thomas Haag obviously did everything possible to maintain freshness, both in the vineyard and in the cellar.

Our pricing today is the lowest in the nation (by a healthy margin) and for those of you who thrill to the mineral-driven whites of the Mosel, I can't recommend the wine enough. From a qualitative standpoint, it is an absolute triumph in Mosel dry Riesling.

Supplies are just silly limited so this email goes out only to those of you who have supported our German program. Still, we expect a rather speedy sell-out.

To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Stephen Bitterolf
Wine Director
Crush Wine & Spirits





2009 Schloss Lieser


Niederberg Helden Grosses Gewachs (Dry)



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