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Austria
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Jul

29

2011

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf

Austria in Perfect Clarity
2010 Alzinger: Riesling and Grüner Veltliner
"Wachau 2010 is a candidate for greatness."

Let me begin with a simple sentence: These are perhaps my favorite Austrian wines, scarcity be damned.

Leo Alzinger and his son, Leo Alzinger, make wines that are Saar-like in their clarity, finely woven, porcelain creations that softly hum notes of fresh green fruit, forest and mineral. They display an herbal-salt-earth combination that is for me about as mysterious and pure and enchanting and awesome as it gets.

Sep

11

2012

Posted by Joe Salamone

"You wouldn't be surprised if the cellarmaster were the Dalai Lama." -Terry Theise

It's very hard to know where to start with Alzinger - they are haunting in their detail, their precision. There are no other wines in Austria this fine.  

The Theise quote above gets to the essence of things: The Rieslings of Alzinger whisper: they are quiet, angelic, crystal clear with flawless balance, clarity.

May

16

2012

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf

The 2008 Loibenberg presents fireworks on this fine razor's edge. The Loibenberg is perhaps the most exotic, most lavish and generous site in the Wachau - the wines flaunt heady perfumes. It is a "Grand Cru" site if ever there was one, farmed by many of the greats of the Wachau (FX Pichler, Knoll, etc).

Nov

13

2010

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf

Austria in Perfect Clarity
2009 Alzinger Riesling and Grüner Veltliner
The Lovely, Lovely, *LIMITED* 2009 Alzingers

I tasted these in Austria in June and loved them - some of the best of the vintage without a doubt.

So I returned to the U.S. and placed what I thought was a reasonable little order - nothing crazy, but say 10 cases of this, 5 cases of that... just a few Austrian gems that, really, shouldn't be missed.

Alzinger makes wines that are Saar-like in their clarity, finely woven, porcelain creations that softly hum notes of fresh green fruit, mineral. They display an herbal-salt-earth combination that is simultaneously enchanting and awesome.

Apr

26

2011

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf

Melusine: The Final Vintage
2007 Melusine Grüner Veltliner
Grüner Veltliner at its most Forceful, most Burgundian

Marion Ebner's cult Grüner Veltliner project comes to an end with the beautiful 2007 vintage.

Today we offer the final few cases discounted $40 a bottle.

It's an easy ploy, the whole "almost 50% off" thing.

And it is a crazy deal, a ludicrous deal, one of those deals everyone should take advantage of. The only price in the U.S. for this bottle of wine is $88.50 - today we offer the final few cases for $49.95.

Apr

13

2011

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf

Austrian Rarities: Part II
2007 Alzinger Riesling Smaragds
Hohereck - Loibenberg - Liebenberg

Last week we offered out a small parcel of 2006 Alzinger Riesling Hohereck Smaragd.

Today we present the grand (petite) finale.

A pristine little assortment of the grandest, most mineral and delicate and meditative wines from Austria, and indeed the world, from the superb 2007 vintage.

As time has gone on, the 2007 vintage in Austria, quiet on release and in the shadows of the mighty 2006s, has developed into one of the most impressive vintages of the decade. Obviously it's hard to predict at this still early stage, but when we look back in a few more years, I think it's likely that 2001 and 2007 will take top honors for the decade.

Jan

28

2010

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf
Moric Decanters
Burgundy or Burgenland?
2007 Moric Blaufränkisch Elegance of Burgundy - Soul of Austria

"Wines in a style you will not encounter anywhere else in Austria: Blaufränkisch vinified as if it were Grand Cru Burgundy."
- David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate

Heed Schildknecht's words above: This is an offer for the Burgundy lover, for those who appreciate a seductive, balanced expression of fruit, mineral, flower, earth.

This is elegant Blaufränkisch. In most cases, that's a rather jarring phrase; if Blaufränkisch has a reputation at all for the American consumer, it'd likely be reduced to "juicy, rustic and rugged."

Roland Velich and his Moric project, however, are leading something like a revolution in Austria's Burgenland - going back to the fundamentals and in the process finding a pure, authentic expression of Blaufränkisch.

May

30

2012

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf

Crush Press: Volume 2


Everything you Wanted to Know about Austrian Wines but Were Afraid to Ask


With essays from David Schildknecht, Aldo Sohm and Terry Theise


Mar

08

2013

Posted by Joe Salamone

Donabaum's Neuburger Federspiel really impressed us. It's very rare that we buy something on the spot without discussion among the buyers, but in this case we just looked at each other and signed up for everything right on the spot.

Feb

21

2012

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf

This wine has drive and a just unbelievably slick structure - as if the entire wine were whittled down to its essentials.

Indeed, the Kellerberg is, in my opinion, perhaps the greatest site in Austria. The reason I think this is simple enough: Time and time again, when I come to old Kellerbergs (whether FX Pichler or top Knoll vintages) the wines are simply so complete - they are everything. They are luxurious and long and detailed and so, so, so finessed.

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