June 13, 2008

Vatan 2006

The 79-year-old Edmond Vatan has been making what is largely considered to be the world's top Sancerre for an entire generation. The Sancerres from his Clos la Neore vineyard are renowned for their purity, depth, expression of terroir, and surprisingly for Sancerre, their profound ageability. Though wonderful in their youth, a Vatan Sancerre will only improve over the next decade - or two or three?

He treasures his legendary vineyard, a tiny 2.5-acre plot (that's one-fifth the size of Central Park's Great Lawn and smaller than many Westchester back yards!) that Vatan himself planted over 60 years ago and that sits in the sweet spot of the steep slopes of the legendary "Damned Mountain" otherwise known as the Monts Damnes vineyard.

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Posted by Tom Stephenson at 4:26 PM | TrackBack

May 21, 2008

Chateau Chalon, Vin Jaune and Cotes du Jura

A Jura-nian Primer!
This is, admittedly, all a bit more complicated and esoteric than New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Here's what you should know.

Chateau Chalon is an appellation in the Jura, not to mention the name of the town. This is a tiny appellation - roughly 100 hectares total - and is only used for Vin Jaune. If a wine sourced from Chateau Chalon doesn't make it to Vin Jaune status, it must take the Cotes du Jura appellation. In other words, if it says Chateau Chalon, than it must be a Vin Jaune.

Vin Jaune literally means "yellow wine" and refers to an oxidized wine made from the Savagnin grape. Keep in mind that while the best Vin Jaunes come from Chateau Chalon, you'll also find Vin Jaune from Etoile, Cotes du Jura and Arbois.

Cotes du Jura is a larger appellation and is usually used for white wines based on either Chardonnay or Savagnin, though the two grapes are often blended and the Cotes du Jura does produce some very good Vin Jaunes.

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Posted by Joe Salamone at 3:02 PM | TrackBack

February 22, 2008

Lignier: 2005 Clos de la Roche and Company

The campaign of top 2005 Burgundies at compelling prices continues at Crush!

I'm thrilled to be able to offer out the 2005 Ligniers, from the Bourgogne Rouge up to the grand Clos de la Roche, direct from the domains at some of the lowest prices in the nation!

Regardless of the confusion during the last two years, the Lignier domains continue to produce some of the best wines out of Morey, Chambolle and Gevery-Chambertin.

To my palate, few estates have been able to so successfully marry the power and energy of the ultra-vivid 2005 fruit to such a sleek, delineated mouthfeel. There is a focus to these wines, a clarity of fruit, a super-fine polished minerality that is seemlessly built into these 2005 Burgs. This is delineated hedonism!

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 5:33 PM | TrackBack

Louis Boillot - Grower Burgundy with Heart and Soul

Louis Boillot crafted some outstanding wines in the more difficult 2004 vintage. As he's married to Burgundy phenom Ghislaine Barthod, this is a family that lives and breathes wine. In 2005 he has outdone himself, gifted as he was by the near-perfect fruit that has already made the vintage famous.

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 5:20 PM | TrackBack

January 24, 2008

1996 Lanson Brut Gold Label - Champagne Steal at Under $50!

Today I bring you what is the first ever Champagne "Back up the Truck" - Lanson's 1996 Brut Gold Label!

Lanson is one of Champagne's oldest houses with a style that balances chiseled, razor-sharp minerality with an outrageous purity of fruit. Take this detail-oriented style and match it to the muscle of the 1996 vintage - one of the 20th century's greatest - and you get a wine of dazzling focus and super-charged intensity.

Now, consider the price. The fact that we can sell the 1996 Lanson Brut Gold Label at $48.50 - the lowest price in the nation - represents a rare buying opportunity. Keep in mind regular non-vintage bottlings of the Grande Marque houses are pushing this price-point while the NV bottlings of top Growers are at $45 and above!

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 12:41 PM | TrackBack

January 16, 2008

2005 Comte Senard Grand Cru: A Cellar Steal at Well Under $100

The 2005 vintage in Burgundy has elevated wines that are ordinarily great to absolutely outstanding. Case in point: Comtes Senard.

While the domaine has glorious parcels in some of Corton's best climats, their past efforts to coax out the full potential of their Grand Cru fruit have been uneven.

2005, however, is another story. This vintage gave Senard, as it did most Burgundians, near-perfect fruit, and winemaker Lorraine Senard took full advantage of this gift. While the domaine's 2005 lineup is very, very good across the board, two bottlings distinguished themselves with such authority that I had to buy them: The 2005 Corton-Clos du Roi and Corton-Bressandes. These are absolutely top notch Cortons. For those looking to put a few 2005s in the cellar before they disappear, look no further.

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 12:08 PM | TrackBack

January 9, 2008

2005 Texier Brezeme Pergault VV: The Forgotten Old-Vines of Brezeme Speak

Today, we're pleased to offer one of the best red wines of 2007 - a wine that will transcend every other 'Cotes du Rhone' you've ever had: Eric Texier's 2005 Brezeme Pergault VV.

Texier's 2005 Pergault has a shocking combination of elegance and vivaciousness, with shavings of tart red fruit, lean, sinewy cranberry and raspberry, beautiful dried herbs, black olives, smoke, bramble, earth and that oh-so-classic plum-violet-black-pepper-bacon-fat thing that I look for in great Rhone bottlings.

This is the most serious Rhone value on the market today. Texier's 2005 flaunts the depth of this extraordinary vintage and drinks so far above its class it's almost absurd. Today we're thrilled to offer it in two formats - regular bottles and magnums - at the lowest prices in the nation.

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 11:03 AM | TrackBack

December 14, 2007

2007 Crush Wine of the Year: Krug Grande Cuvee

Choosing any one wine, out of a year's worth of incredible experiences, is a daunting task.

Though in a way, this year is a bit easier for me. I've been a passionate drinker/collector of Champagne since I first began my adventure into wine over 17 years ago. 2007 is unquestionably the year Champagne came of age, both at the retail level and at auction. Collector/investor interest in top cuvees is at an all time high - Champagne has now joined the ranks of Bordeaux and Burgundy as one of the most sought-after and collectible wines in the world, with Krug and Dom Perignon leading the way.

With this in mind, my wine of the year came into sight as the obvious victor. This is a wine that takes tremendous amounts of time, care, labor and materials to produce - yet year in and year out it is consistent and complex. The 2007 Krug Grande Cuvee is the Crush Wine of the Year!

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 7:29 PM | TrackBack

December 13, 2007

Ian's Wine of the Year: 2005 Potel Cote de Nuits-Villages

So I have to begin this email with the embarrassing admission that I drank up most of the bottles we had in stock of my Wine of the Year - Nicolas Potel's delicious 2005 Cote de Nuits-Villages. (Sorry about that.)

As penance though, I'm happy to offer the final shipment, arriving in early 2008, at a special pre-arrival price that's discounted down to under $30. I've been on a 2005 Burgundy rampage for much of the year, going to just about every tasting I could find. At this price, Potel's Cote de Nuits is the most authentic and invigorating 2005 Burgundy I've experienced - an energetic and worthy mascot for this unbelievable vintage.

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 12:22 PM | TrackBack

December 12, 2007

Tom's Wine of the Year: 2002 Cazin "Cuvee Renaissance

The methods I used to determine my "Wine of the Year" have nothing to do with point scores or detailed comparisons of the thousands of wines I have tasted over the last 12 months. My metrics are much more simple and visceral - last year Forte Canto swayed me with its "Gulp-ability Factor."

This year I declare Cazin's 2002 Cour-Cheverny "Cuvee Renaissance" my Wine of the Year, citing the"Lemonhead Effect!"

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Posted by Tom Stephenson at 11:07 AM | TrackBack

December 11, 2007

Joe's Wine of the Year: 2000 Fonbel

My choice for Wine of the Year is the 2000 Chateau de Fonbel.

The story here is simple: An innocent tasting where I was simply blind-sided by the wine's purity and elegance - aromatic with plentiful fruit wrapped in layers of great spice, minerality and florality. The mouthfeel is undeniably St-Emilion - luxurious and full, expansive and enveloping, yet with a seemingly nimble footprint.

At under $40, this is one of the best deals in Bordeaux I've come across all year.

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 11:05 AM | TrackBack

December 5, 2007

1999 Bollinger Grande Annee

The full-court press of the holidays is upon us! By the time the end of last week rolled around just about everybody needed a little pick-me-up. I was happy to celebrate our hard work an add a bit of excitement to our usual Friday staff tasting by popping the cork on some bubbles.

The unquestionable star of the night was Bollinger's 1999 Grande Annee. This is an amazing bottle of wine - the one that everyone was talking about Saturday morning. Rich and thunderous with a fantastic foundation of dark and sweet notes, baking spices, and the trademark "Bolli" cookie dough provide a solid core around which shavings of citrus added high notes and balancing accents. The concentration and length... nothing short of amazing.

For those of you who have never had vintage Bollinger, this is the perfect moment to indulge - with the party season beginning, I can't think of an under-$100 bottle of vintage Champagne that offers the finely detailed exuberance and pure hedonism of the Grande Annee.

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 12:21 PM | TrackBack

August 8, 2007

Sancerre Sans the Scary Price
2004 Mellot Sancerre "Les Romains"

First off, I want to thank all of the Crush Crew for your support of the Gazela "Back Up the Truck" email. Keep in mind we have a few more cases available if you missed out on your $3.99 bottle of air conditioning or just need to reload.

Today's offer is in response to a number of requests we received for a similar summer steal whose style is more on the "serious side." Enter 2004 Sancerre 'Les Romains' from Alphonse Mellot, by far the best Sauvignon Blanc I've tasted this summer.

Mellot achieved absolute greatness in 2004, and due to the vagaries of the New York wholesale wine market, I am happy to offer this incredible bottling at 20-30% off its shelf price elsewhere, at a rate that is in-line with Sancerre prices of years past!

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 11:55 AM

June 15, 2007

2004 Servin Chablis "Cuvee Massale"

Crush Staff Pick for June!

While 2005 Red Burgundy has been getting a lot of attention recently, it's important not to forget that the great 2004 White Burgundies are some of the best ever made.

There's just no denying the invigorating cut and precision of the 2004s. Since the wines were first released, the best 04s have been the darlings of critics and the Crush staff alike. 2004 is undeniably a purist's vintage: Wildly aromatic with laser-like intensity, pure citrus fruit, transparency and grip. Our Staff Pick for June, the 2004 Servin Chablis "Cuvee Massale," is electric - you can almost hear it crackling with tension...

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Posted by Tom Stephenson at 10:58 AM

May 17, 2007

THE Summer Sipper! 2005 Berlioz Chignin

The thermometer is finally rising - as are your requests for an imminently sippable, crisp and classic white wine to pair with the 80+ degree days that are already upon us.

Yes, it's time to "Back Up the Truck" for summer! From vineyards that date back to the 11th century and vines that are 30 to 80 years old, Berlioz's 2005 Chignin is a wine whose delicacy belies its searing intensity. While the wine is delicate and crisp, on the palate it unleashes powerful citrus fruits, lemon and green apple, touches of pear and a chalky minerality that's peppered throughout the long (long) midpalate.

This is a wine that, at under $20, is one of the best values going for summer sipping!

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Posted by Tom Stephenson at 12:28 PM

April 19, 2007

Jean-Louis Chave: Crozes Feat!

A Crush Exclusive!

As many of you know, the Hermitage of Jean-Louis Chave is a very personal wine to me. I've written this before, but it bears repeating: If I were restricted to only one producer in the Rhône, it would be Chave. There is just no one who can coax the intensity, complexity and sheer elegance from Syrah like he can. His efforts are justly rewarded - the 2003 Chave Hermitage is currently selling at well over $600.

With all this in mind, I have to say I am personally thrilled that Crush will be the exclusive North East retailer for Chave's newest venture - the inaugural 2005 Crozes-Hermitage, which we'll be offering at the lowest price in the nation.

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Posted by Bob Schagrin at 12:58 PM

March 26, 2007

2005 Vatan Sancerre "Clos de Neore": Legendary Sancerre from Chavignol

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Edmund Vatan is thought of in many circles as the single greatest producer in Sancerre, tenderly fashioning a minute amount of wine that is renowned for its purity, depth, expression of terroir, and surprisingly for Sancerre, profound ageability. His masterpiece in Sancerre has been on the list at restaurant Taillevent in Paris for over 40 years.

Sadly, according to our sources, nearly 60 years after he planted his vines in Sancerre's most heralded vineyard, Monts Damnés (see sidebar), the Sage of Sancerre has decided to throw in the towel. This might be the last batch of his wine that ever reaches the public...

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Posted by Tom Stephenson at 9:06 AM

March 15, 2007

Domaine des Grecaux: Rhone has Fallen!?

Gone are the days when one could pick up top-notch Chateauneuf-du-Pape for under $30. Even Côtes du Rhônes, what can amount to the bargain-bin category of the region, are fast pushing $20-$25.For those who thrill to the berry and fig-packed flavors, loamy minerality and dried herbs so associated with the wines of this arid rolling landscape, there is relief. Turn up the Quality-to-Price Ratio by turning to one of France's undiscovered and undervalued territories: The Languedoc.

Domaine des Grecaux's 2003 "Terra Solis" drinks like a slender, sleeker, fresher version of the Southern Rhône's great wines...

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Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 1:20 PM

February 15, 2007

A Great Case of the Clape: 2005 "Vin des Amis"

When the thermometer dips as it has over the past few weeks, I begin to hear frequent requests for a �hearty and smooth red wine under $20.�

Syrah from the northern Rhone is the logical pick � but the continued weakness of the dollar versus the euro has made it very challenging to find a bottle with fullness, complexity and that unmistakably warm northern Rhone elegance.

That�s why today�s offer is special - it's exceptional Syrah from one of the northern Rhone�s greatest winemakers at a more than reasonable price.

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Posted by Tristan Meador at 5:23 PM

November 10, 2006

1990 Nicolas Joly Coulee de Serrant

Here are my (short) tasting notes:

Color: Mid->Dark apple juice yellow/brown.

Warmed up beautifully and needed the decant (the man knows what he's doing with those paper inserts that say "serve at X celsius and decant for a long time.")

Lovely sweet herbal aromatics and that classic Joly green-tea on the attack.

Excellent mid-palate of surprising freshness and acidity. While fun up-front, the real treat was the finish. LONG. Rich. Would have with a steak with it even at this age, or just enjoy on a cool November night with a lawn chair. Not for the faint of heart.

Posted by Tom Stephenson at 1:48 AM

November 2, 2006

Ragnaud-Sarbourin Cognac Paradis

Paradis Found

We've been helping you stock your cellar all year with a healthy mix of some of the most sought after wines in the world across the price spectrum. Now it's time to raise the "bar."

For those of you who are not familiar with Ragnaud-Sarbourin's Cognac Paradis, listen up. This small estate is the odd-man-out in a region better known for its monolithic commercial houses and the billions of bottles they churn out every year.

The fact is, the "big four" Cognac producers (Remy Martin, Courvoisier, Hennessey, and Martell) account for over 90% of the region's production. Ragnaud-Sarbourin couldn't be more different than the "big four." They own and farm their own small vineyard - "la Voute" - entirely themselves. You would too if you controlled some of the oldest vines in the entire World.

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Posted by Tristan Meador at 1:41 PM

October 26, 2006

Betts & Scholl Hermitage 2001

To my mind, the reference point Hermitage is from Jean-Louis Chave. If I were to own only one producer, he would be it. His legendary wines are, without a doubt, the most collectible bottlings from the appellation (the ultra-low production 2003 is currently trading between $600-900/btl, if you can find it).

The wine is sought out year after year due to its consistency, greatness, and scarcity. The Chave family's uncanny ability to turn out great Hermitage for the last half-century has been absolutely unmatched.

In the great 2001 vintage, Chave produced yet another masterpiece - a textbook, traditionally crafted Hermitage, now selling for $200-$300 per bottle.

Enter: Betts & Scholl

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Posted by email offers at 12:41 PM

October 12, 2006

Guigal Côte-Rôtie Chateau d'Ampuis 2001

Ripe. Rich. Huge. Monstrous. But Elegant. Palate coating - teeth staining. What else would you expect from the famed Rhône Valley appellation Côte-Rôtie?

After all, it translates as "Roasted Slope." Unlike its southern neighbor Chateauneuf-du-Pape, wine from this region is nearly 100% Syrah - and I might add, this is the Syrah that defines Syrah.

The family estate of Guigal has defined Côte-Rôtie for many decades and is consistently the benchmark for all other winemakers in this region. They produce the three most revered and collectible bottlings of Syrah-based wine on the face of the earth: La Turque, La Landonne and La Mouline (collectively known as the "La-La" wines).

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Posted by Bob Schagrin at 12:33 PM

August 4, 2006

Weekend Reading: The New York Times Rediscovers Wines of the Jura!

Since Crush has opened, we have become a haven for strange and obscure wines, always seeking out the best undiscovered bottlings from around the world.

Over the past year, I've quietly assembled the largest selection of Jura wines in New York, and maybe even the nation (we have 13).

This week, our cover was blown sky high by Eric Asimov who wrote a story on these esoteric wines.

In the case of the Jura, esoteric might be an understatement as the wines do not fit into any preconceived paradigm. While the region is only 50 miles from Puligny-Montrachet, what's in the bottle seems centuries removed from modern wine tastes.

While they include the structure, minerality, and acidity of Burgundy, the wines of the Jura also harken to Jerez with their oxidative and maderized aromas.

Given the very harsh growing conditions, (mountain weather, challenging soil and terrain with inclines that range from 10%-40%) many of the wines are made in a purposefully oxidative style, which is not for everybody.

Despite their lack of commercial success, the small growers of the Jura (only a handful of people own more than 75 acres) keep on truckin'.

How have these wines survived since their first mention in writing in 869? While endorsements from Louis Pasteur and Henry IV, who sent wines from the Jura to his mistress, certainly haven't hurt, the wines are still around because of their incredible food friendliness and excellent quality. Also, most growers are also farmers who sell their milk to the local Comté cheese Co-ops, so their livelihood is not 100% based on selling their wine.

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Where In The World?

The name "Jura" comes from the Jurassic period when France was giant sea.

Lime deposits that many of France's vineyards are heir to from this period are more deeply buried in Jura than in other regions.

Here a heavy, thick layer of clay covers the limestone base, contributing to the fierce acidity that is a signature of Jura wines.

As with many mountainous regions, Jura's poor, rocky soils limit the scope of its agricultural production almost to the potato.

What the region lacks in agricultural fecundity, its compensates with lush pasture lands studded with wild flowers and herbs for cattle to graze on, thick forest filled with game and wild mushrooms, well preserved streams and lakes redolent with fish, a plentiful amount of walnut and chestnut trees (used not only in their natural state but also made into flour and oil), and great poultry and swine.

The brisk mountain air provides the perfect environment to cure ham and sausage.

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Quick Jura Grape Primer:

Savagnin:
Thick skinned, and huge in natural acidity and luscious citrus flavors. Makes white wines in both oxidative and non-oxidative styles. A perfect match for Comte and Gruyere cheeses.

Chardonnay:
Accounts for 45% of Jura's vines and is made in the regions largest range of styles - from heavily oaked to ultra-traditional and oxidized, to fresh and sparkling. We have a Cremant de Jura made from 100% Chardonnay arriving next week!

Poulsard:
A very light, delicately perfumed red (or white) wine that acts more as a white wine regardless of skin contact. Hard to pin down. The intellectual freakshow of the bunch.

Trousseau:
Red grape with gamey, spicy, with red currant flavors, Trousseau is the favorite pair for the region's hearty game dishes. Because of its weight, it's often used to add heft in blends with Poulsard or Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir:
Not a total stranger to red Burgundy but lighter bodied, with higher acidity. When made well it exhibits a tantalizing spiciness and refreshing tart fruit, not to mention the occasional floral notes and slight smokiness. Our Pinot Noir from Ganevat was so popular that we've sold every bottle except for the two that Crush partner Bob Schagrin had squirreled away in the back of the Cube!

Traminer:
A non-aromatic lighter bodied cousin of Gewurtztraminer, that is very similar to Savagnin.

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 2:41 PM

August 1, 2006

Sancerrely Yours... Great Chavignol

Sancerre is the most elegant expression of Sauvignon Blanc, and its recent surge in prices reflect its growing popularity. That's why we're thrilled to offer you not just a Sancerre, but one from Chavignol.

Yves Martin Sancerre has all the classic aspects of great Chavignol: a creamy, rich texture, wonderfully pure citrus fruit, stony minerality and uncommon depth.

Those of you who found Sancerre from the 2003 vintage to be too soft and overripe will be relieved � other vintages offer profound complexity and a "stalactite" personality; simply put, this wine�s got some serious, mouthwatering acidity that pairs beautifully with a range of foods.

While it�s incredibly tempting to drink the wine right away, we strongly encourage you to squirrel away a few bottles. In 5 to 8 years, this Sancerre will go through a remarkable transformation.

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Posted by Tom Stephenson at 1:42 PM

May 23, 2006

2004 Pouilly-Fumés of Didier Dagueneau

Didier Dagueneau is a visionary: For the last 12 years, he has sought to improve the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fumé throughout the world by breaking the rules.

A staunch critic of overproduction, he cultivates only 11.5 hectares (about 1.5x the size of Central Park's Great Lawn) biodynamically and sparing no expense. One vintage he went so far as to publish photocopies of the invoices for the pickers who hand-harvested his vineyards.

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Posted by Bob Schagrin at 4:18 PM

May 17, 2006

Bagnol Cassis Rose: Unheralded Elegance from Provence!

As you know, we go to lengths to find details on the wines and winemakers that we are in love with. However, we have less information on today's rosé from Domaine du Bagnol than any wine to date, despite a lengthy search.

Why? The appellation of Cassis is tiny, with only 13 winemakers covering a miniscule 182 hectares, only 1/3rd of which is used for rosé. (points of reference: the average vineyard area for individual first growth Bordeaux chateaux is 90+ hectares and Central Park is 341 hectares!!!).

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Posted by Tom Stephenson at 2:12 PM

April 18, 2006

Neal Rosenthal - 2002 Domaine de Montbourgeau and 2001 Hautes Terre de Comberousse

Neal Rosenthal is one of our favorite importers to work with beacause all of his wines are hand-selected and true to their respective terroirs.

They are "real wines" - generally not as fruit forward or oak influenced as some of the more popular and high-scoring New World bottlings, but I find them to be outstanding for their incredible uniqueness, traditional production methods, and reflection of terroir.

Out of all the excellent wines in this style that we've purchased in the last few months, there are two whites that I find to be particularly exciting: a blend from the Coteaux du Languedoc and a slightly oxidized bottling from the Jura.

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Posted by Bob Schagrin at 10:56 AM