Crush: Italy

Secret Rhone Outpost: Dettori

Wed, 21 Apr 2010 10:53:00 -0500

Southern Rhone's Island Outpost 2004 Tenute Dettori Rosso Cult Sardinian Grenache: Lowest Price in the World "Simply put, Dettori's 2004 Rosso rocks." - Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate

For Southern Rhône fans, for all those who went long on the 2007 Chateauneufs, today the journey south to the Italian island of Sardinia will be very rewarding.

The common denominators here are Grenache (that most dazzling, meaty and floral grape) and sunshine. A lot of sunshine. Yet the voice, the tone, of this grape on the brushy island of Sardinia is distinct - perhaps a bit wilder, perhaps even more expansive and exotic than its attitude in the Rhône.

This is to say nothing of the old-vine treasure-trove of Grenache vines (called "Cannonau" locally) that Dettori farms; 120-year-old wisemen with deep, deep roots that pull up from the earth a serious concentration.

2005 Macarico Aglianico del Vulture

Thu, 04 Jun 2009 11:27:40 -0500

The (Extreme) Barolo of the South Twice the Wine at Half the Price? If the wines of southern Italy have never quite enjoyed the so-called "polish" or "sophistication" of the north, when the force of these muscular wines is tamed, they are show stoppers - riveting bottles that flash powerful ripe fruit on tensile, sinewy frames. It should also be said that the best wines of the south happen to be ridiculous values. since the producers don't have the aristocratic legacy that many of northerners benefit from. (and dare we save even sometimes use as a crutch)

Far Too Beautiful: 2004 Bea Sagrantino

Tue, 03 Mar 2009 12:32:39 -0500

2004 Paulo Bea Sagrantino Secco "Pagliaro" Traditional, Singular, Dazzlingly Beautiful "At their best these are finessed expressive wines of the highest level in a style that recalls the Brunellos of Gianfranco Soldera or the Barolos of Giuseppe Rinaldi, to name just two producers with a similar aesthetic.." - Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate It's been almost 4 years since we first began singing the praises of Paolo Bea's wines and in this short time the estate has gone from a culty, under-the-radar gem sniffed out by the curious, impassioned few to a traditional Italian phenomenon beginning to garner serious mainstream attention.

2003 Mascarello Barolo Monprivato

Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:28:39 -0500

The estate of Guiseppe Mascarello is one of the most underrated in the wine world; Mauro Mascarello, the current head of the estate, is a Piedmont legend standing with the giants of traditional Barolo: Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa and Bartolo Mascarello. Because of our long-standing support of Mascarello's famed Barolo Monprivato, we were able to secure one parcel of the 2003 at a special pre-arrival price. At well under $100, this is one of the greatest deals in all of red winedom. Mascarello's Monprivato is, year in and year out, one of the defining Barolos and in the mammoth 03 vintage, Mauro has crafted a Monprivato that handles its stunning ripeness with pitch-perfect elegance.

Gaja and Bartolo 1971s

Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:08:27 -0500

Exhausted and hungry after a 12 hour retail day, Maslow's hierarchy of needs often moves drinking great wine to the end of my immediate priority list. Last Friday evening, basic human needs caused Stephen to head for home at 8pm and almost convinced me to follow the same path. Lucky for me (and unlucky for him) Crush Managing Partner Bob Schagrin was ready to throwdown and had stood up two 1971's from Piemonte to enjoy...

Giacomelli Vermentino: Complex Winter White from Liguria

Fri, 29 Feb 2008 15:11:14 -0500

Could this be the cruelest time of the year? The holidays have receded well into memory, daylight seems scarce, the chill is here and spring is still much too far away. The only answer our eccentric minds could cook up was a Mediterranean-inspired meal with a couple of Vermentini that deliver the fresh warm scents of the sun-soaked Ligurian coast of Italy. (Click here for more on the Vermentino-celebrating meal Joe concocted, including a killer recipe for Bourride - a fish stew from Nice - the perfect partner to Giacomelli's rich Vermentini.)

Mascarello's Monprivato - Discounted!

Fri, 07 Dec 2007 13:16:40 -0500

The continued low prices for Barolos from the estate of Giuseppe Mascarello are inexplicable, especially given the unquestionably elite status of the wines. Because of one of the best deals we cut all year, we are thrilled to bring the prices of these wines even lower - up to 40% below fair market value! Importantly, at these prices almost any curious wine lover can try at least one bottle of this Piedmont Royal, before the numbers go up to where they should be. This is also the year's last Italian offering, and such an honor couldn't be bestowed on a more worthy winemaker. Mascarello is one of my personal Piedmont favorites and these are two wines we've been saving for this final celebration: Mascarello's 2000 Monprivato and the inaugural 1993 Monprivato "Ca d'Morissio," both offered at the lowest prices in the nation.

Cappellano Back-Vintage: Piedmont in Ecstasy

Wed, 26 Sep 2007 16:46:47 -0500

Finding the elite bottlings of Piedmont great Teobaldo Cappellano is hard enough; finding his wines from top vintages like 1996, 97, 98 and 99 is basically impossible. Yet we've found them. Even more incredibly, we're able to offer these back-vintage gems, with nearly a decade's worth of perfect cellaring, at phenomenally low prices. Consider that we're able to sell the 1997 Barolo "Pie Franco" at $54.78 - nearly 50% lower than the current release. Other deals include: 1997 Barolo Pie Rupestris for $49.83 1996 Barbaresco for $39.77 1999 Langhe Rosso for $19.98 Suffice it to say that this Cappellano parcel represents one of the most remarkable offerings of the year. Click here to see our entire Cappellano collection and shop online; to order by telephone please the store at (212) 980-9463.

Stephen's Wine of The Year: Montesecondo Rosso

Mon, 11 Dec 2006 00:21:58 -0500

I knew Silvio Messana痴 2004 Montesecondo would be my "Wine of the Year" the first time I had it. A Tuscan red with supercharged fruit, fresh acidity and a thrilling vibrancy, it痴 one of the greatest food wines I致e tasted in 2006. It is honest and unpretentious, a wine that doesn稚 overpower a meal, but perfectly complements it.

Teobaldo Cappellano

Tue, 26 Sep 2006 08:26:07 -0500

Italy, Piedmont

When I first asked Teobaldo Cappellano about his winemaking process he shrugged his shoulders and looked at me with a soft sense of disappointment. In this scene, I was clearly Luke Skywalker and he was Yoda the Jedi Master. After a short pause, he said: "Son, when you make love, do you read the Karma Sutra?"

Emidio Pepe: The Ballerina with Boxing Gloves

Wed, 13 Sep 2006 12:17:41 -0500

The handmade wines of Emidio Pepe are absolutely unique, combining the raw power of California reds, the elegant perfume of Barolo, the earthy complexity of Bordeaux and the finessed grace of Grand Cru Burgundy. Those who understand them soon become obsessed (like me), but be warned: these wines are not for everyone. For some, these wines are just too untamed, too expressive, too raw. One thing, however, is undeniable - these bottles truly redefine what Trebbiano and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo can be. Like the man, the wines of Emidio Pepe are uncompromising individualists, celebrated by the initiated few, yet unknown to the larger public - at least for now. These wines gain in reputation every year, and they are slowly earning a loyal following. This means it's getting harder and harder to find the few bottles that this small family-run estate can produce. If you would like to try these wines, now is the time. We are proud to be able to offer you a number of outstanding bottles, all of impeccable provenance, coming directly from Emidio Pepe's cellars to you!

Paolo Bea: Under the Radar Umbrian Superstar!

Thu, 03 Aug 2006 13:52:11 -0500

From the hills of Montefalco in Umbria, the Bea family has been quietly toiling to create one of the most distinctive red wines we've had this year. Though they have their own specific formula dating back hundreds of years, the major focus of making this incredible wine is letting nature take its course. When Paolo says, "nature should be observed, heard, understood, not dominated," it is neither for political reasons nor for show - it's ultimately all about taste. The family's goal is to achieve a natural expression of terroir & grape that extracts a liveliness and purity often lacking in over-manipulated wines. Each Bea bottling reads "che il vino � vivo!" (this wine is alive!), and it is clear that they mean it from their uncanny ability to coax change from grapes without dominating or destroying their essence. While some ridicule their methods, such as planting artichokes under the vines to improve exhausted soil, it is just this type of active and delicate vigilance that makes their minimalist intervention practices so successful. The result of the family's devotion is that the Bea name is uttered by those in the know in the same breath with DRC, Comtes Lafon, Dagueneau, and Gravner. So why haven't you heard of Bea? Like our email on Clos Rougeard last week, this is another family that has absolutely no desire to market themselves, but prefers to make only the amount of wine they know they can sell. In fact, the Bea estate is 40 acres, less than 1/3rd of which are dedicated to wine production, while the rest is used for the family farm ... if they wanted to expand production, they would have no problem planting more vines. How does the wine taste? "Multifaceted" doesn't even begin to describe the outcome the Bea family achieves from their efforts. See our tasting notes below, but Bea's masterpieces will bring a smile to the faces of all Rhone, Brunello, and Amarone devotees. Staunch USA-only drinkers will have their world rocked.

2001 Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco "Pagliaro" Neal Rosenthal, the importer, says that the 2001 is the "fourth in a series of stunning vintages in Umbria and may perhaps be the finest of all." We agree, because this 100% Sagrantino from the Pagliaro vineyard site is incredibly forward compared to previous vintages. While the wine will certainly improve over the next 10 years+ as it develops secondary nuances, it is drinking amazingly well right now. Here are my tasting notes: "The bouquet and palate are a beautiful mash-up of leather, tobacco, cheese, violets, plum, black cherries, funk, and a 'sauvage' earthy sweetness. Every time I smell or taste the wine, I get something new! While smooth in the mouth, some serious tannins lie in wait for the finish. Balancing this formidable structure is an impressively crisp acidity that pulls the whole thing together, keeping it vibrant and fresh. Somehow, despite its richness, the wine is ethereally light on the palate. This is the best red wine I have tasted so far in 2006, and the wine I would cellar if I were forced to pick only one"

2002 "Rosso di Veo" The challenging 2002 vintage shows that the Bea's tried and true winemaking formula includes a healthy dose of good humor, as the first words on the label are "vendemmia difficile" (difficult year!). The vintage also shows the magic that an incredible winemaker with patience and character can create by working with what nature offers. Appropriately, the words on the label that follow "difficult year" are "ma sorprendente" (but amazing). How did Bea get amazing wine in a so-so vintage? By refusing to bottle his flagship wine (the "Pagliaro,") by discarding any questionable fruit and cutting overall production by 25% overall, by working with nature gave him to make the absolute best wine possible, and by humbly labeling his effort as a Vino di Tavola (the only criteria for which is that the wine is made in Italy). Bea bottled only a single cuvee in 2002, blending all of the Sagrantino he normally uses for his top wine with the Sangiovese and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo used for his Montefalco Rosso. The results are quite impressive - the Roso di Veo or "red of Bea" (Veo = Bea in local dialect), has outstanding density and concentration of flavor regardless of the year it was produced. In comparison to the "Pagliaro" it also has a riper fruit character (surprising given the weather conditions) and is much darker in essence ... a sort of meat plus chocolate and dark fruit flavor combined with an earthy sweetness. While the Rosso di Veo doesn't have the structure of the flagship Sagrantino, at 25% of the price it is made for joyous and immediate celebration today either on its own or with food.

More about the family

Members of the Bea clan have been living in the hills of Montefalco since 1500. Since they moved into the area, little has changed at their classic, self-sustaining Italian fattoria. Known primarily for their wine, the Beas also farm olives, fruits and vegetables and raise livestock for their personal consumption ... all the while passing along history and tradition as well as a true passion for living in harmony with the land. Paolo Bea, the head of the family, is nearing 75 years of age, but continues to be the guiding force at the winery, translating years of experience and lessons from his father into some outrageous wines. His son Giuseppe grows the grapes while Giampiero makes runs the winery from vinification, to bottling, to sales

What does natural wine mean? A common misconception is that "natural wine" involves throwing grapes into barrels and seeing what happens. Making wines naturally is a difficult process as Nature often throws a wrench into your plans. To make sure your wine doesn't run away on you, you must have to have exacting standards and incredible attention to detail. In Paolo Bea's case, the family methodically applies centuries old traditions while making modifications for the weather conditions in each vintage. What does natural practices does the Bea family use? -Organic & Byodynamic farming -Low yields and a relatively late, by-hand harvest -Long (40 day+) maceration (juice left to soak on skins) -Fermentation with only naturally occurring yeasts -No additives (sugar, enzymes, or sulfites) -18 month fermentation in stainless steel -12 month fermentation in old oak -No fining or filtering

Where in the World? Montefalco is located in Italy's central region of Umbria. The region is often called "The Balcony of Umbria", because it is situated atop a formidable hill surrounded by the valleys of Clitunno, Topino, and Tevere. The slopes that fall away from Montefalco have been cultivated for centuries, and produced wines that were served to popes and governors during the Renaissance. Spotted with beautiful churches, monuments, and artifacts, Montefalco joins the small nearby commune of Bevagna once a year to host a week-long celebration of the region's wine including Montefalco Rosso, and the famous Sagrantino. The south facing slopes of Montefalco, when paired with the cool, deep, clay and calcereous soil, are ideal for the hearty Sagrantino grape. Sagrantino is made in two styles: "Secco" and "Passito". Passito is a sweet wine made using centuries old tradition of drying grapes and is characterized by blackberry, licorice, and orange nuances with heavy tannins and sweet, raisiny taste. Sagrantino "Secco" is a more recently (1970s) pioneered dry version of the wine characterized by blackberry and cherry fruit with a soft spiciness and earthy undertones. To qualify for the designation "Sagrantino di Montefalco" each wine must be aged for no less than 30 months and spends at least 12 of months in oak.

1998 Eduardo Valentini Trebbiano D'Abbruzzo

Wed, 28 Jun 2006 10:56:17 -0500

Eduardo Valentini took the lowly Trebbiano grape and turned it into a wine that people scour the world for. In his hands, Italy's most prolific (and usually insipid) grape became a world-class, refined, and ageworthy wine that is truly a cult favorite. While Valentini produced a red wine from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, he considered Trebbiano to be the best expression of Abruzzo, the eastern Italian region where he made his wines. Not only has the grape been there since Roman times, but he believed it best conveyed the essence of soil, climate, and culture in Abruzzo.