January 27, 2009

Toni Bodenstein's Prager: High-Altitude Aristocrats

How many winemakers do you know would plant a high-altitude site even when everyone in the region warns against it?

How many winemakers do you know work painstakingly hard to re-cultivate some of the oldest and most extreme sites in historic vineyards? Sites that are an adventure just to access, let alone tend or harvest.

How many winemakers do you know fight for genetic diversity, not with trite one-liners or bumper stickers, but by actually sourcing diverse selections from all over Austria, Germany and France and cultivating them in one vineyard? (This is the "Noah's Ark" of winemaking.)

Well, here's one: Toni Bodenstein at Prager. Herr Bodenstein is one of the most interesting, engaged and thoughtful winemakers in Austria or anywhere else for that matter. His collection of 2007s is a testament to this extreme rigor, not to mention the incredible vineyards he works (more on that below).

What words describe the signature of Weingut Prager? Pure. Precise. Mineral. Intense rather than powerful, with a weight of concentration that is belied by the sharp focus of the wines, the dramatic cut and precision, the missile-like thrust and lift.

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 12:52 PM | TrackBack

January 23, 2009

Willi Schaefer Steal - 2007 Estate Riesling

After a painful two-year drought, Schaefer's insider's secret, his QbA Estate Riesling, is back in a BIG WAY. This is probably the best Estate bottling that Willi and Christoph Schaefer have ever put together, just another golden coin from the bounty of 2007 in Germany.

Posted by Tom Stephenson at 11:31 AM | TrackBack

January 22, 2009

Solaris 2006 Chardonnay

Let's propose a wine truism: Most bottles that cost under $10, taste like bottles that cost under $5. Sure, you're not spending much, but you actually get less than what you're paying for.

It's the rare inversion of this truism that makes our offer a "Back Up the Truck" free-for-all!

Posted by Tom Stephenson at 11:56 AM | TrackBack

January 15, 2009

Winter Mixed Case

Assembling a Crush mixed case is no casual affair. Trying to strike a balance between the wines, the prices and their appropriateness for the season has been the cause of many disagreements. But I think we've come up with the most balanced mixed case in terms of style and price.

Today, as the snow gently blankets NYC, we bring you our winter mixed case. We've discounted every bottle 20%, bringing the the case under $200. Think of it this way - you get 12 bottles that used to be $20+, for about $16 a bottle.

Posted by Joe Salamone at 10:33 AM | TrackBack

January 13, 2009

Chevillon Vaucrains: Star of the Vintage and a Big, Brooding Burgundy

There's always some buzz around the Burgundy vintage prior to the "official" reports and scores. Certain themes come up again and again: Rousseau made great wines. Freddie Mugnier really hit it out of the ballpark. Aubert (de Villaine of DRC) thinks the Grands Echezeaux is phenomenal this year (and it is), but the RSV is really smokin'!

We certainly heard some of those things regarding 2006, but there was one note that came up again and again that left us very pleased, but not surprised. The word was that in 2006, Robert Chevillon, an elder statesmen of Nuits St. Georges, produced one of the collections of the vintage.

Posted by Ian McFadden at 7:06 PM | TrackBack

January 9, 2009

Schafer-Frohlich: Boy Wonder in the Nahe

Tim Frohlich, the 30-something ultra-cool winemaker, may well be a genius. He has what Rudi Wiest calls "the touch." Unlike most winemakers in Germany, he did not study at Geisenheim; instead, at the tender age of 21, after only an an internship, he simply told his parents (his mother was making the wines at the time) that he was ready to take over the estate. And so he did.

I can't quite explain it, but when Tim says something to you, it's said in such a frank and even tone that it's hard to resist. It's as if he can only recite god-given facts. In my imagination, Tim wakes up one morning, realizes he is now going to make the wines at the estate, and calmly tells his mother and father. They, in turn, nod silently in agreement and then everyone goes back to work without another word.

However it went down, it was a wise move. Tim's first vintage was 1995 and in the decade plus since, Schafer-Frohlich has risen to an elite status in the Nahe. Donnhoff beware. Emrich-Schonleber watch out! Indeed, after the mind-blowing strengths of his lineup of wines from 2005, 2006 and now 2007, I really don't think there are many people who could argue that this estate is not on paar with Donnhoff and Emrich-Schonleber.

Posted by Stephen Bitterolf at 10:05 AM | TrackBack

January 8, 2009

Braised Lamb with Olives

Perfect to pair with 1989 Vajra Freisa.

Posted by Joe Salamone at 11:17 AM | TrackBack