Despite the fact that the wines from Clos du Mesnil may provide an absolutely singular experience, and the magically transformative "Collection" releases can redefine a vintage, I'm continually drawn to great vintage bottlings.

Due to the extreme generosity of a customer who I'll simply call DRP, I was able to try perfectly cellared examples of 1982 and 1988 side-by-side.

Let me be clear: both wines are absolutely spectacular and, in my opinion, head and shoulders above the 1985, 1989, and 1990.

The question then is which one is "better"?

After enjoying 1/3rd+ of a bottle of each over the course of nearly two hours, I really can't say.

What I can tell you is that the '88 is fresh and lively, with beautiful, zesty lemon fruit and that fine but still brisk bubble. In the back of my mind, I kept on comparing it to a 1996 Raveneau Butteaux that I was lucky enough to share in last year. Without any disrespect to the Rav, the Krug has another entire level of complexity, lift and vibrancy ... an absolute electric energy and a mouth-tingling tangy finish that lasts nearly a minute. The textbook Krug richness begins to unfold after about an hour, and it makes me think that this wine is a baby. The combination of its acidity and raw material should help it continue to improve for the next few decades. My advice: buy and hold in a cool, dark place. Drink now if you like 'em young and a touch angry. I know I do.

The cliche that comes to mind about the 1982 was that it was 'further along', however, you certainly coudln't tell by its color, which remained a very pale, almost strawlike yellow that was impossible to distinguish from the 1988. The combination of the vintage and the extra 6 years in bottle have served the wine well. Taking a quick sniff you can immediately tell that this wine is more open and expressive as ever so sublte aromoas of M&M shell and cookie dough enter an otherwise clean and lean nose. On the palate the wine is smooth and elegant with the sweetness of the nose translating to the attack. But the real fireworks start in the mid-palate where a soft yet intense richness explodes and envelopes your tastebuds. The richness carries on just until the beginning of the finish when the wine narrows again and finishes incredibly cleanly, with any hint of sweetness a faint memory. Delicious now, but I'm interested to taste the wine as it opens further and see how it progresses. (note: a secondary bottle label reads: held at Krug for late release for Andrew Bruce in 1999)

Overall, I wonder how much the extra 6 years on the cork affected the 1982 versus the characteristics of the vintage. Recent tastes of 1982 v. 1988 Clos des Goisses (my two favorite of an 8 vintage CDG vertical) display similar characteristics, though the 1982 was disgorged in 2006 so the richness was at a whole new level and it was hard to imagine what an "on the cork since the beginning" 1982 would taste like.

Once again, my father's motto was proven: "Life is too short to drink bad champagne."