Cambra's 2003 "Uno" (so-called because it is made from one grape, the local variety Monastrell) is one of the most opulent, inky, colossal wines we've come across all year. It is not, however, one of these simple "might makes right" wines. Cambra definitely coaxes out of his grapes true regional character and grit. This is power, with soul.

The "New" Spain

At Crush, we're a skeptical crew. We�ve read the hype surrounding the "new" winemaking regions in Spain, from the Priorato ("Priorat" is the Catalan spelling), to Cigales, Montsant, La Mancha and Valencia. (See sidebar.) These regions are definitely producing some big wines - but frankly, with the Spanish sun punishing the grapes, how could the wines not be massive?

Great wines show more than just power. They exhibit depth, complexity, finesse, terroir. When judged against these standards, many of the "hyped" wines fall to the side. The truth is our expectations just haven't been met by most of these wines.

Cambra�s wines, however, are the "real deal," charmed from 50-year-old vines that produce a paltry 1 kg of fruit per vine. The few grapes these vines produce are of course handpicked. Fermentation takes place completely in stainless steel, after which Cambra gives the wine a 14-month slumber in French oak of 1-2 years age. An additional 8 months in bottle gives the oak a chance to integrate into the luscious juice. The final product: a deep, meaty wine with ripe black fruits, layers of complexity and powerful exotic tannins.

Cambra's wines so clearly stand out from the crowd of young, brash wines with swagger, and often, not much substance. Cambra is swagger with substance, a bodybuilder who quotes Cervantes with ease.

His wine is more than strong enough to match up to the heartiest of fall and winter stews, and intriguing enough to want to drink all on its own. Either way, the wine is in prime form right now, though short-term cellaring won't do any harm.

I wanted to do an email about his wine last year, but we simply sold through our small allotment of 2002s too quickly. No worries; the 2003 is tremendous - and it's only Cambra's second vintage! Trust me, by the time his fourth vintage comes out, the wine won't be as cheap, nor as available.

Stephen Bitterolf
Crush Wine & Spirits

2003 Cambra "Uno"

Where In The World?

Valencia, along with Spanish regions such as Priorato, Cigales, Montsant, and La Mancha, has experienced some serious growth - and media attention from the wine world - in the last 5-10 years. This is not to say that winemaking hasn't been around in these regions for a long time, because it has. Cambra's Monastrell vines, after all, are 50 years old.

Valencia, where Cambra's wines are from, gives its name to a region on Spain's eastern Mediterranean coast, about 350 Kilometers south of Barcelona. It's also the name of Spain's 3rd largest city, a famous port town in the region, responsible for sending out to sea the area's famed oranges.

Winemaking in this region goes back - way back - to Neolithic times. Texts dating back to the 2nd century BC have mentioned the region's wines. The first Spanish wine treaty was even written by a Valencian. Though winemaking styles vary significantly in Valencia, from simple quaffing whites, to lightweight reds and even dessert wines, the bottles that have caught the attention of wine lovers around the world are the new "powerhouse" wines styled from international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as traditional Spanish grapes like Monastrell.

What the (good) new-style wines all have in common are old vines with severely crippled production, grapes pushed to extreme ripeness, and serious aging in new (or newer) wood. Cambra's wines, for example, although fermented in stainless steel, see 14 months in French oak of 1-2 years of age, and an additional 8 months in bottle before they're released.