March 28, 2006

2000 Chateau Mangot Grand Vin

When we tasted the 2000 Mangot we flipped — Not only because of the extremely high quality and aging potential from one of the best years in recent memory, but because it was not "internationalized". While many of its Bordeaux counterparts are over-manipulated, the Mangot classicly European in style and a genuine expression of the terroir of St. Emilion.

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 4:42 PM

March 26, 2006

Drink Wine. Not Soup.

"Ahhh, perfect temperature," my boyfriend and I said at the same time after tasting the slightly cool Côtes du Rhône the waiter brought to our table. Our friends, knowing we both work in the wine business, stopped talking and looked at us curiously. "So is that some sort of wine speak? Should I say 'perfect temperature' next time I taste wine to impress people?" one friend asked.

It wasn't supposed to be a wine geek comment at all, but it seems few people know to serve red wine cooler than split pea soup. We've experienced wine temperature offences at all levels of establishments – from a casual pizza place in Brooklyn to an elegant restaurant near Union Square. When red wine tastes like it was stored too close to the kitchen, we usually ask a server to put the bottle over ice for a few minutes. After this chill time, our casual wine-drinking friends always admit they like the wines better.

Warm red wine reveals too much scathing alcohol which obscures the fruit and other flavors. Bring the wine down a few degrees, and suddenly the fruit seems fresh and bright, the alcohol more nicely integrated. Serve red wine too cold, however, and the fruit becomes dull and the mouth-drying tannins too evident. Wines with fewer tannins, like Beaujolais and some Pinot Noir quaff easily around 55 degrees F. For your strapping young cabernets and shirazes with aggressive tannins as well as older wines with loads of nuance to divulge, think more like 60 to 62 degrees F.

Wine temperature should not be a concern exclusive to wine geeks. Why? Wine is supposed to be enjoyed, and the unofficial poll shows that even occasional wine drinkers find slightly cool red wine more pleasant. Next time life serves you soupy red wine, impress your friends. Ask for an ice bucket. Then you, too, can say, “Ahhh, perfect temperature.” —Kristin Donnelly

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 7:31 PM

March 23, 2006

2004 Domaine Laurens Marcillac Rouge

Given the astounding support we received with our 20%-off sale, our first email back-in-the-saddle had to be a great value.

To reward everyone that came by the store last week, we found an unheralded wine of exceptional quality in the virtual treasure trove of Southwestern France.

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 4:11 PM

March 18, 2006

Great Burgs at Cru from two weeks ago.

Hit Cru last night. Been a while and it did not dissapoint. Started off with the 1993 Carillon Bienvenue Batard Montrachet which was an incredible wines and really turns up the volume for me as to how good the '93 vintage can be for whites. Muted aromatically at first but with beautiful precision and detail on the palate. Still a bit cold though with some pretty perky acidiy. But as this warmed up the wine really turned a corner. The nose grew more complex with many white flowers and green apple fruit and extraordinary minerality. The palate came together with beautiful symmetry, great elegance and sappy fruit. This was all interwoven on a bed of minerality with perfect balancing acidity. The fruit/acid/mineral balance was jaw-dropping and the length was exceptional. This stood up to many of our courses but went excellent with the Nantucket scallops, some of the amuse bouches and the dishes with heavier sauces. Stunning white burg that I will be eager to try with more bottle age on it. Love Pernot but this was on another level.

Next up we asked sommelier Robert Bohr what the best Dujac on the list was. Without missing a beat he said the 1985 Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin "Aux Combottes". So we order it with a touch of hesitation. Not doubting Robert in any way but more questionable of the vintage character. '85's can be a touch too soft. Well as soon as this was poured and sipped by us we knew that this was the '85 for us. Oh yeah the other guy at the dinner was fellow BB'er Josh Wertlieb. Absolutely riveting nose of exotic spice, nuttiness, bright red fruits and sous-bois. Penetrating aromas of great complexity that evolved over the night. There was a new nuance every time I stuck my nose in the very big glass (Riedel Sommelier Burgundy glasses.) Great glasses but felt a litle bit like a character in Alice in Wonderland drinking from these. The palate was incredibly lacey with bright red fruits and wonderful lifting acidity. Great mix of complexity/earthiness and sweet sappy fruit. Still structured to a T. Long finish and incredibly versatile with the food. Married well with the pasta with white truffles and the langoustine. Long finish. Truly ethereal wine.

The next wine was somewhat controversial. It was 1990 Lafarge Volnay "Clos des Chenes". While there has been alot of talk about roasted and over-fruity 1990's this really fit the bill. This was not lacey and a bit foursquare and chunky. The nose smelled overripe of macerated cherries with not much else. This did not display much of that Volnay elegance that I have come to expect and seemed clumsy. Oh well 2 out of three ain't bad. Great dinner. The food was excellent less the hazelnut-lamb dish which was way too hazelnutty. The wine service as usual was exceptional with Mr. Bohr doing an excellent job.

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 10:22 PM

March 9, 2006

2005 Scholium Project Naucratis Lost Slough

As you know, the crush motto is "The truth is in the bottle" and my primary focus is finding great, uncommon wines and bringing them to you, regardless of ratings, reviews or point scores.

The Scholium Project "Naucratis," a verdelho (!) from rebel winemaker Abe Schoner, is easily one of the most original and unique wines that I have tasted from California. Abe's approach to winemaking (the project) is about letting the vineyard speak, and you can even tell from the packaging. While other wines contain cute pictures of animals or catchy designs, the only text on the front label of Abe's wines is the "Scholium Project." The back label contains simply the vintage, vineyard and sometimes the grape variety.

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 3:57 PM

March 7, 2006

2004 Alvarez Y Diez "Mantel Blanco"

Over the years, I've tasted my share of wines from Rueda and listened to Spanish wine importers and enthusiasts rave about them. But, none of that marketing or talk ever convinced me. Sure, Spanish white is generally nice and crisp, perfect for sipping on the patio or by the pool. But no Rueda has ever knocked me over with complexity, flavor or depth.

But then I tried the Mantel Blanco Rueda, which has that extra dimension I've been looking for. The Mantel Blanco offers an incredible mid-palate, wonderful purity of flavor and a soft yet vivid texture. It really transcends my idea of Rueda. To serve, think lighter fish and seafood, but it also makes for a refreshing cocktail wine.

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 3:47 PM

March 2, 2006

2003 Fourrier - Pinot Noir

What do you get when you cross old-vine Pinot Noir with an innovative, traditional estate and a vintage with drought-like weather conditions? Some of the world's most exciting red Burgundies!

Before 1994, the Fourrier estate produced wines of agreeable quality. Now, under the leadership of young winemaker Jean-Marie Fourrier, the Domaine has a distinctive style that places it near the top of the Gevrey-Chambertin hierarchy with the likes of Rousseau and Mortet.

Like many great Burgundy producers, Fourrier has strong winemaking beliefs based on minimum intervention and a harsh selection process that includes selling fruit from younger vines to other winemakers so only his best grapes make it into bottles with his name on them.

Posted by Bob Schagrin at 3:38 PM