For the past few years, Chardonnay has been so unhip that some clever wine drinker coined the term "ABC" (Anything But Chardonnay) .

But at Crush, we like to think ABC stands for "Awesome Bottles of Chardonnay," because believe it or not, they do exist.

While the rich, oaky and viscous style of Chardonnay has its place and is easy to drink at a party, a different type of Chardonnay makes the Crush staff do cartwheels: the kind that's racy, minerally and funky (in a barnyard kind of way). Even better, great Chardonnay has tremendous length and complexity.

Most Chardonnay that fits this description comes from the Burgundy region in France.

If you're used to blousey, New World Chardonnays, it's time to reintroduce yourself to the grape; otherwise, you'll miss out on wines that are expressive and full of character.

We suggest you start with Gerard Chavy's 2001 St. Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly".

No new estate in Burgundy has gotten me more excited in the last year than Harmand-Geoffroy.

In the market today, discovering a new rising star has become increasingly rare due to the combination of Burgundy-mania and the sheer number of established estates producing great wines year after year.

So when I tasted the '01 Gevrey-Chambertin "Vieilles Vignes" I was absolutely floored by its sappy, dense, structure with oh-so-much soul -- everything a great Gevrey should have.

I quickly ordered the full line of 2002's and have been absolutely thrilled with every bottle I have opened.