Nebbiolo, the grape used to make Italian Barolos and Barbarescos, can seduce wine drinkers almost as well as Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, the seduction rarely comes quickly or cheaply. If you look hard enough, however, you'll find wines like Ferrando "Etichetta Bianca" ("white label") 2001, a Nebbiolo from a small producer that is just spectacular.

Of all the wines I tasted this month, none met my criteria for a great wine as well as this one. The "Etichetta Bianca" is from a traditional family-run winery that makes its wines with love and care. It drinks beautifully now but will age gracefully for at least another seven years. Finally, the wine is exceptional for the price; it drinks like a $50 bottle.

Why the amazing quality for the price?